May 2013 CNCC Meeting: Lessons Learned (Cliff DeJung)

Shadows and Arrow, Self-Portrait. Tucson, Arizona, 2013

At last night’s meeting our guest was Cliff DeJung, a talented photographer from Longmont, Colorado. His presentation on “How to Get Tack Sharp Images” went into more depth than I had seen before about this topic. Thanks, Cliff!

Now, assuming you are wanting to get tack sharp images…

Cliff DeJung’s suggestions on how to get tack sharp images with your DSLR are as follows…as I was able to paraphrase them (and I modified a few items):

Stuff You Have Probably Heard Before:

–Use a tripod with a remote (or the shutter release delay set to 2-5 seconds).

–Use the fastest shutter speed you can. Typically 1/focal length of lens as a minimum…2x or even 4x that if the subject is moving.

–Use mirror lock-up, or exposure delay mode, to minimize movement caused by the mirror.

–Use live view, magnify your image, then fine tune with manual focus.

–Use a single focus point if using autofcus, and focus on the part of the image that absolutely must be the sharpest–like the eye on a portrait subject or an animal.

–If handholding, brace yourself as best you can on something convenient, use your image stabilization mode, hold camera firmly, then gently squeeze the shutter…even try burst mode as the second or third image will often be sharper than the first.

Stuff That You May NOT Have Heard Before:

–Use your best image quality file–ideally RAW, or at least the best quality JPEG.

–Use the best lenses and filters you can afford. Shoot with a nude lens (no filters) if you can.

–Use the lowest ISO you can, expose properly, don’t crop excessively, and use proper sharpening in post.

–Avoid teleconverters if you can, except maybe the least powerful (say, 1.4x) on the best glass.

–Shoot at the lens’ sweet spot, typically a couple of stops down from wide open.

–Avoid diffraction by shooting at f/8 or f/11 max. This may mean you’ll be focus stacking your images, especially when shooting macro and when you need a deeper depth-of-field (DOF).

–Avoid the extremes with zoom lenses–they are often softer at the longest and shortest focal lengths.

–Test and calibrate your lenses on your camera. You’ll learn a lot about how to maximize your system.

–Understand DOF and consider using a DOF calculator or hyperfocal distance calculator (You can get an app for your smart phone–check that previous link.) DOF changes with f-stop, of course, but also with distance to the subject–the latter case being sometimes very surprising when you see what the DOF calculator comes up with. Yes, the old rule of focusing 1/3 into the image can work, but it is not precise enough for all work.

–Review at 100% to check sharpness, but no more. Don’t rely on the LCD screen on your camera to detect good sharpness–your computer screen is much better.

–Adding contrast in post can add apparent sharpness.

–A blurred background behind your subject can add apparent sharpness.

Finally…

–Slow down and take your time!