Mendoza, Argentina (8 years later)

Tree, Lamps and Fountain, Plaza Independencia. Mendoza, Argentina, 2014

Things have definitely changed in Mendoza and, unfortunately, not for the better (pretty pictures above and below notwithstanding).

There is more ugly graffiti in evidence (the more artistic street murals I actually like a lot), things look a bit more run down, the formerly well-cared-for plazas look dirty and unkempt–Plaza España even seemed to be more of a skateboard park and folks have apparently taken to stealing some of the unique porcelain tiles on the pathways…there are more places where you probably ought not go due to security issues. We even have the impression folks aren’t dressing as nicely and have gained weight (an increasing fast food influence?).

Of course, the currency is not the same either…now it is 7 pesos to the dollar officially, 10 pesos to the dollar on the black market (the so-called “dólar blue“). So, at least for today, a 100 peso note is essentially worth 10 dollars when the ratio was one-to-one back in 1995 when I first arrived and somewhere around three-to-one during our last visit eight years ago. The current rate makes for an easy translation of prices–just move the decimal to the left: 700 pesos is 70 dollars. At least, for today. [UPDATE as of March 2016: Current rate is 15 pesos to the dollar and no more black market or “blue dollars”. Just change your money at an exchange–don’t bother with trying to do it on the street.]

Over the past few years, pensions and salaries have been cut, many businesses closed, workers laid off, government services (plaza maintenance included) trimmed. The famous Argentine middle class, having been seriously squeezed many times before, really is in danger of disappearing. The real unemployment rate is somewhere around 18%. The people are pissed. Maybe even more pissed off than they have been in the past (they were complaining back in 1995, too, but it’s a notch worse these days it seems).

At least we have been able to visit with old friends, the landscapes are still beautiful (some great mountain biking trails!), the ice cream is the best in the world, and the food is wonderful (try the homemade pastas and the classic asado).

Current situation of the country aside, it has been great to reconnect with folks we haven’t seen in years here in my “pago adoptado”. May their future be much better.

Casa de Gobierno. Mendoza, Argentina, 2014