University Oaks Crit, San Antonio, Texas, 2008
OK, lets go with an off-topic topic today… but something a bit less controversial than photo organization, politics, religion, or football (soccer).
It seems like folks are looking at alternative exercise options these days as the virus has eliminated a lot of team sports from the equation, at least for the time being.
Cycling is something that is fun (makes you feel like a kid again!) and will keep you quite fit aerobically. Indeed, local bike shops around the US and even here in Spain say there has been an uptick in sales during this Corona Era.
That, plus all the questions I seem to get from friends now getting into cycling, prompted me to draft the following…
DISCLAIMER: My experience racing on the road (and a bit off-road) for 25 consecutive seasons certainly colors my advice. So, I tend to opine more about road cycling and cross-country mountain bike (MTB) options. Take this bias into account as you read.
My Top Ten Cycling Tips (for the newbie)
#1 – Which bike?
The first step in the bike purchase decision tree is to decide what kind of bike you want. Today, you can choose from all kinds o’ machines for all kinds o’ sometimes bizarre uses: road, time trial, mountain (cross country), mountain (downhill), 29ers, 26ers, 27.5ers, dirt jump, freeride, hybrid, trials, BMX, gravel, tandem, tricycle, recumbent, snow, city, messenger, commuter, cargo transport, long distance touring, track (velodrome), fixed-gear, single-speed, electric-assist road/mountain/city, et cetera… the list seems to grow longer each year. So, you’ll have to ask yourself what kind of riding you (and your friends) plan on doing and this is likely heavily influenced by where you live. As to the brand, you almost can’t go wrong with many of them, so don’t get too caught up in that. BUT, and this is important, make sure the bike fits! Usually the shop where you buy it will set you up on a stationary trainer and make sure everything is customized to your particular odd human dimensions, even changing out a stem, saddle, seatpost, or handlebars to ensure you will be perfectly paired to your steed. Even after you walk out with the bike, a good shop will let you come back for a free “touch-up”–adjust gear and brake cables (they stretch out), true the wheels, etc.
On electric bikes… I can’t really speak from much personal experience here, but a number of friends own these and love them. I did sample ride one once, very briefly, and it was indeed a kick. There are commuter, road, mountain bike versions and many others. The assist lets you ride with a partner or group that normally would go faster than you would like, or it will help you up that last big hill you have to climb to get back home. You can range farther away from home base and see new sights. E-bikes will open up a whole new world to you. (At least, that’s what my friends say!)
#2 – How much should I spend?
I get this question all the time–especially from folks who are purchasing their first bike since childhood and think they can get away with spending a couple hundred dollars tops. Ha! I would say the sweet spot of the price-quality curve is somewhere between $1,000 to $2,000 or so for a new model–and this applies to most any kind of non-electric bike. For that price, you get 80-90% of what you’d get if you spent $8-10,000 on a top end bike. Spend much less than $1,000, and you’ll be throwing cash at something that is considerably heavier and more prone to maintenance issues–and it won’t be nearly as fun to ride. Spend under $500 and, IMHO, you are just throwing money into the shredder. Consider buying last year’s model–sometimes you can find these at deep discounts. Also, consider buying used. Used bikes don’t hold their value very well and you can sometimes pick up a super deal–but, make sure that bargain price doesn’t persuade you to buy something that doesn’t quite fit (have an expert gear head accompany you).
#3 – What’s with “gruppos”, groupset, or component groups?
This refers to the key components that hang on the bicycle frame–the brakes, gears, cassette, chainring(s), cranks, and bottom bracket… and sometimes also hubs for building up wheels, stem, headset, etc. (handlebars are usually not included and wheels are sort of a separate item).
Each manufacturer (Shimano, SRAM, Campagnolo are the big ones) has a hierarchy of component groups ranging from outrageously expensive to dirt cheap, and to a large extent you get what you pay for. Again, though, the price-quality curve is worth paying attention to. For example, most pro road riders will have the top o´the line gruppo on their bikes complete with electronic shifting, but that is hugely expensive and not necessary for most of us.
For one quick example, Shimano road groups, from most expensive to cheapest, might go something like this: DuraAce, Ultegra, 105, Tiagra, Sora, Claris. (With a nice quality-price compromise at the Ultegra or even the 105 level.)
Do some Googling and you can find each manufacturers gruppos listed. Note that, on many bikes, they might mix and match various levels of components to vary the price. For example, you might have Shimano 105 drive train, but Tiagra brakes.
The cheapest components are heavier, don’t work as well, and will have problems sooner, so consider components somewhere near the middle of the hierarchy for your first bike (say, Shimano 105 for a road bike, for example).
One option, is to buy the frame and components separately, but maybe consider that for your second bike, after you really know what you want.
On the subject of disc versus caliper brakes… The trend is going toward disc brakes, but if your new bike is a road bike, they are really not necessary. Even today, among the pros in the Tour de France, you’ll see a mix of disc and traditional brakes. Mountain, gravel, and cyclocross bikes, though, are a bit different and I personally prefer disc brakes for these riding styles. Indeed, these days, it might be hard to find a mountain bike without disc brakes, even in the lower price ranges.
On the subject of electronic shifting… Higher end groupsets have incorporated an awesome new technology–electronic shifting. Not necessary for your first bike, but something that, with time, may filter down into lower level groupsets.
#4 – What else do I need to buy?
Be sure to budget for the necessary accessories: a good, well-fitted helmet, gloves, sunglasses, a water bottle, a tire repair kit, chain lubricant, extra tubes, a small frame pump for road/trail use, and a heavy duty pump for home use. Maybe even a multi-tool or a couple of Allen keys to make small adjustments. And, yes, get a good pair (or two) of riding shorts and don’t wear underwear–there is a reason cyclists use specialized shorts! A jersey is not a bad idea either as they are designed for riding comfort and have pockets to carry extra items, food, etc. Gloves will protect your hands in a fall and make holding the bar more comfy. Finally, if you ride when visibility is at all low, consider front and rear lights. Lighting technology has really come a long way these days and you can pick up remarkably small units that put out a whole pile of lumens–some even USB rechargable. Finally, you might need a beefy lock if you use your bike for errands and/or leave it out of sight for any length of time (even seconds!).
The ADHD among us love to purchase other things like heart rate monitors, power meters, GPS cycle computers, cool apps for the cell phone, GPS anti-theft devices, helmet or bike-mounted video cameras, and so on. The sky is the limit. I, like many others, rode for many years with a cycle computer and a heart rate monitor–until one day I heard a voice from above and took all that crap off my bike and chest. What freedom! I even rode my best 40K time trials with no performance feedback at all other than perceived effort. But, you do what’s right for you.
#5 – Shoes–clip in, or not?
A beginning rider usually has an allergic reaction to the idea of being clipped in to their pedals. But, if you have the patience to get used to them, they will significantly increase your efficiency and safety. Once you get the hang of it (yes, you’ll likely do the clown fall-over at a traffic light once or twice), you’ll never go back. Me? I HATE riding a bike without being clipped in to the pedals. Having said that, if they still inspire too much fear, there are a couple of other options you could consider. One, if it is a road bike, instead of the typical rigid and slippery road shoes, just use mountain bike shoes with a MTB clip/pedal system–they are easier to get in and out of and you can easily walk in them. Or, two, consider using those old-fashioned cages on your pedals–then you can use any shoe you are comfortable with. If you do elect to go with a modern clip-on system, make sure you have a shop align your cleats so you are pedaling correctly; this will help avoid any knee issues.
#6 – Flat tires and other headaches–what should I carry?
I know a lot of cyclists who wouldn’t know what to do with a flat tire other than call their spouse for help. Usually, the first flat tire out in the boonies and out of cell coverage is enough to motivate them to get educated. (Check with REI or your local bike shop to see about classes.) Don’t just be prepared for one flat–carry what you need for multiple flats, just in case (Murphy’s Law). When I ride my road bike–tires with tubes–as a minimum, I carry two extra tubes, a tire patch kit (check this every three months–the glue dries up), and a pair of tire levers. I also carry a sort of cycling multi-tool as well, for other roadside repairs, plus an emergency five-Euro/dollar bill. If I’m on my mountain bike–with tubeless tires–I’ll carry extra sealant (Stans!), an extra tube, and a patch kit–the tube can be inserted inside the tubeless tire to get you home. One cool hint: Sometimes a flat is caused by a serious puncture to a sidewall causing a larger hole. If you merely replace the tube, the tube, once inflated, will bulge out through the hole and quickly fail. In a pinch, a piece of roadside trash (cardboard, or even that five-dollar bill!) can do the job of covering the hole before inserting the tube. Finally, make sure you carry either a good, compact pump, or a CO2 inflator with a couple of canisters–I carry both, typically.
#7 – Riding in groups–should I? (Well, post-COVID, that is.)
Yes! You learn so much more and it’s WAY more fun, off or on-road. Cycling is quite the social experience once you find a group you are comfy with. Check for info on group rides with your local bike shop or bike club–often the outings are rated so you can start with the easiest/shortest rides and work your way up. The group can help you learn the ins-and-outs of group cycling etiquette as well as–on the road, anyway–the fine art of drafting the wheel in front of you. Yes, drafting. Even as a beginner or recreational rider this is a skill you should definitely learn at some point as it will save you huge amounts of energy during the longer and faster group rides on the road, or on even on that casual “century” you’ve made your goal. It can be a bit scary at first, but as you get more skilled at bike handling, learn how the rotations work, and begin to trust your fellow riders, you’ll be amazed at how fun and efficient it is.
Personally, I much prefer riding in groups. You get to know people of all walks, you go farther and faster than you would alone, you learn the local area, you generally ride safer and more scenic routes, you push yourself maybe just a bit harder than you might alone (or you can take it easier by just “sitting on” at the back)… but most of all, it is just good, G-rated fun!
#8 – Traffic laws–do I have to obey them?
Yes! On bikes, we are just like a vehicle. Best to learn the specifics of your local laws. For example, sometimes it’s OK to ride two abreast, but sometimes not. Lighting is usually required after sunset and before sunrise. In cities, a warning bell may also be a requirement.
NOTE: Laws can be viewed a bit differently (bent???) based on cultural context. For example, in Spain, Italy, or Argentina, motorists will almost assume a group of cyclists will be ignoring the traffic lights. Do that in Boulder County, Colorado or Germany, though, and the entire peloton may get pulled over and ticketed.
#9 – Changing gears, rpms…
Unless you have a bike with an automatic transmission, or a single gear bike, you’ll need to learn how to manage your gears. First, those rings in the front with the teeth (you may have one, two, or three) are called chainrings. In the back, that gear cluster is called a cassette and it is made up of cogs. The number of teeth in each is a gear combination–for example, “I was spinning along in my 39-19…” means you had the chain on the 39-tooth chainring (front) and the 19-tooth cog (rear). Gear inches is how far you’ll go in one turn of the pedals. You can look this up in a GEAR CHART for the various cog and chainring combinations you have on your bike. Note that some gear combinations you have may be nearly identical–so that so-called 22-speed they sold you really isn’t, eh!
The idea of having all those gears, though, is to keep your legs spinning along at a steady 90rpms or so–some folks a bit more, others a bit less. You switch gears to keep the same rpm. It takes time and practice but it will eventually become second nature.
Some tips… anticipate the terrain and switch to the appropriate gear just before you’ll need it–too late, and you’ll lose efficiency and momentum.
Another one… you tend to have lower rpms when you stand, so as you go up a steady grade when alternately standing and sitting, try shifting to a harder gear as you stand (lower rpms) and an easier gear as you sit (higher rpms).
Another tip… sometimes, especially when shifting down to a smaller chainring when the chain is on a bigger (inside) rear cog, the chain will fall off inside all of your chainrings onto the bottom bracket–this is a dropped chain. The first time it happens, you’ll likely panic, spinning the pedals at 3000+rpm until you come to a clumsy stop. The solution, the second this happens, is to shift the chain back up onto the bigger chainring (it helps to also shift the chain down into a smaller rear cog). With practice, you can learn to do this very quickly and you’ll barely pause when the “emergency” occurs. If it happens a lot, though, and it isn’t due to poor shifting technique, then your derailleurs likely need some adjustment.
Yet another tip… as you shift the chain up and down the rear cassette, you may notice that the chain, at times, gently rubs against the front derailleur (assuming two or more chainrings up front). This is due to the angle of the chain and can be fixed by making very slight adjustments with the front shifter/derailleur. In a group, there is nothing more annoying than listening to someone’s chain scrape the front derailleur unncessarily.
Finally, one big no-no you will quickly learn is to not ride with crossed gears, or cross chaining–that is, with the big (outside) ring and the big (inside) cog and vice versa. This puts the chain at an extreme angle, makes extra noise and stresses your drive train and is inefficient. Try a different combination instead. If you ride in a group, this will often be quickly pointed out to you!
On compact cranks versus standard cranks… if you like to spin and have lots of climbs in your area, a compact crank may be the answer. They seem to be incredibly popular these days. (Check the link at the beginning of this paragraph for all your Qs and As.)
#10 – A word on getting hurt…
Here are some things that can bring you down HARD onto the asphalt:
Touching someone’s rear wheel with your front wheel while drafting, getting your front wheel trapped in a groove of any kind (railroad tracks, asphalt-to-cement joints, etc.), not holding onto your bars firmly when hitting a bump, divot, or rough pavement, sliding out on a wet surface (it’s always slickest just as the rain begins as it brings out all the oils), getting “doored” (someone opens their car door just as you ride by), slamming into the back of a stopped or slowing vehicle, a vehicle turns right just in front of you as you try to go straight ahead, hitting unnoticed road debris, a tire goes flat but you don’t notice until you go into a hard turn, trying to take off or put on a jacket while riding and it gets caught in the spokes, and so on.
The possibilities of suffering mayhem, broken wrists and clavicles, torn clothing, and ruddy-red road rash are endless. So, word to the wise: ride as if you were invisible, hold on to your bars, and pay attention to what’s coming up.
Generally, if you cycle in a group, as the peloton rolls along, the folks just ahead will point out road hazards, or put out a hand when slowing–all standard courtesies.
Have fun and ride safe!
AMLI Crit, Austin, Texas, 2005
Leave a reply