14er Report #26: Mt. of the Holy Cross (Summer, Halo Ridge-North Ridge, Clockwise)

Mount of the Holy Cross, Sunrise. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,

And sorry I could not travel both

And be one traveler, long I stood

And looked down one as far as I could

To where it bent in the undergrowth;

Then took the other, as just as fair,

And having perhaps the better claim,

Because it was grassy and wanted wear;

Though as for that the passing there

Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay

In leaves no step had trodden black.

Oh, I kept the first for another day!

Yet knowing how way leads on to way,

I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh

Somewhere ages and ages hence:

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—

I took the one less traveled by,

And that has made all the difference.

—Robert Frost, 1874-1963 (People always quote just the last three lines–thought I’d quote the whole Frosty enchilada.)

And what a road–or rocky path–it was on this trip. I thought it to be never-ending at times! But the road less traveled certainly has its rewards…

And will I ever return? Oh, how I would love to…but as Bob, in his poem above, so eloquently noted, “way leads on to way” (it happens too often in life) and I may not.

This peak–one of the most famous of the Colorado peaks–is one I had climbed with a very close friend way back in the Paleozoic Era of the 1980s. We camped in the Eden-like East Cross basin and made it into a nice backpack outing. The climb up the North Ridge was steep and rocky, with some airy glimpses down into the Bowl of Tears basin, but the reward was a special summit done in wonderful company.

But…since the current self-imposed challenge requires that I summit all the 14ers in my, uh, “golden years”, I had it on my list to repeat. This time around, though, I would climb it via a long, spectacular, boulder and talus strewn ridge called the Halo Ridge Route. Then I would come down via the North Ridge, chasing after those ghosts of the Paleozoic as it were.

I timed the trip for one of those classic once-a-month congruences I like so much: a near full moonset just after a sunrise. Would the weather and light cooperate to set the scene for some fine photos of the famed Holy Cross Mountain? Or, more importantly, would the weather cooperate to allow safe passage along a route that traces a toothy profile well above 13,000′ for many hours?

Click below and find out!

Trip Report: Mount of the Holy Cross (14,005′)

Route:

The Fall Creek Trail up to the Notch Mountain Shelter, then the Class 2 Halo Ridge Route to the Holy Cross Summit. Descent via the North Ridge Route and East Cross Creek Basin to the Half Moon Trailhead. This loop is 13-15 miles total with a cumulative vertical of around 5,400′–but it seems sooo much longer with all that talus and boulder hopping along the Halo Ridge…then the steep 1,000′ climb out of the East Cross Creek drainage right at the end just when you are running out of gas and dreaming of a large pepperoni pizza. Be in shape!

Timeline:

I left Boulder around 2p.m. the day prior (Wednesday, July 1st) and arrived in Minturn with plenty of time to explore the town, view (from a distance, anyway) the strange ruins of the old Gilman mining settlement, and take some pictures of Notch Mountain from Highway 24 on the flank of Battle Mountain.

By sunset, I finally made my way up the 8.5 miles of dirt road (Tigiwon Road, FR 707) to the Half Moon Trailhead and was soon dozing off to sleep in the back of the truck.

I awoke without the alarm and was on my way up the Fall Creek Trail at 2a.m. I used a headlamp to cut through the forest shadows until treeline, where the full moon lit things nicely without the torch.

It took just over an hour to get to the signed turnoff to the Notch Mountain Trail, then another hour and forty-five minutes to gain the ridge and the Notch Mountain Shelter–I arrived there at about 4:50a.m., together with the first light of the day.

After a short photo session, I started along the Halo Ridge at 5:20a.m. and made the Holy Cross summit–after 2.1 VERY long miles–about four hours later.

I departed the summit via the North Ridge at 9:50a.m. and was back at the truck at 1:35p.m.

Total time on the route: 11+35. Trailhead to summit took me 7+20 and the descent 3+45. These times include rest stops, photo op stops, and stops to dream of pepperoni pizzas. YMMV.

Weather Conditions:

Some high, thin clouds, with temps during the night in the high 40s at the trailhead. It probably didn’t get below freezing even above 13,000′ from what I saw of the slushy, mashed-potato snow up there. Even the famous Cross Couloir snow climb looks like it is melting out quickly.

During the night portion of my walk, there was a good-sized thunderstorm flash dancing some 30-50 miles off to the east that had me nervously glancing that way a little too often, but it was far away, moving the other direction, and eventually dissipated at dawn.

The first small cumulus clouds started popping around 8a.m. and were starting to get worrisome by 10a.m., although they never did overdevelop into a local T-storm–and I was on my way down by then anyway.

Trail Conditions:

The road to the trailhead is dry and easily passable in your grandmother’s pink, low rider, 1957 Chevy. Just go slow and you’ll be fine.

The Fall Creek Trail had some wet spots and a couple of small stream crossings on it, but nothing out of the ordinary for a Colorado summer.

From the sign at the Notch Mountain Trail junction to the Notch Mountain Shelter you’ll count 42 switchbacks, the first one going off to your right (there are an additional two switchbacks below the sign, for 44 total). So, counting switchbacks from the sign, get your water no later than the last part of Switchback #6 (a long one, going left). This is also where you start to emerge from the trees. Better yet, get your water before you start up the switchbacks as some of these rivulets will be drying up as summer progresses.

As to the switchbacks, don’t despair. Once you get above Switchback #20 or so, they are shorter and go by much quicker. It will come as a sudden and very pleasant surprise when you pop out almost right next to the stone shelter with the top part of Holy Cross in view.

The ridge by the Notch Mountain Shelter is by far the best viewpoint if you want to see the snow cross on the mountain–at least until it melts out later in the summer. The Fall Creek Trail and the climb up to this ridge is a very worthwhile day hike in and of itself this time of year–a beautiful, forested, flower-bedecked, stream-streaked, gradual path to the junction…then a strenuous and spectacular climb to 13,000′ and the flower-carpeted, alpine tundra ridge with views across the Bowl of Tears to Mount of the Holy Cross. You can’t get this view from the other trail, via Half Moon Pass. (I have a very vague memory that my friend and I did this as a mountain run way back in the 80s…but can’t be sure.)

From the shelter, plan on the next 2.1 miles around the Halo Ridge taking you four hours, plus or minus. That seems to be a pretty good average based on other trip reports and my own personal time. You’ll be boulder-hopping, talus-walking, and only occasionally soft tundra-walking the entire time. You’ll be going up…then down…then up…then down…lather, rinse, repeat…for a looong time. Good weather is imperative. This is not a place to be caught out in the open by a rampaging Thor.

On the ridge, I pretty much kept to the ridgeline and crossed directly over the summits of Points 13,248′, 13,373′, and 13,831′ (Halo Cross Ridge). Only on the latter, the highest point, did I slip a bit off to the left (south) of the ridge for much of the bouldery traverse in order to avoid some snow patches and rougher terrain. (This 13er, Point, 13,831′, is one of the highest 100 peaks in Colorado and a beautiful mountain in its own right.)

Along the whole of the route, it is possible that I found myself on an occasional, short, Class 3 move, or next to some pretty fluttery exposure down to the Bowl of Tears, but none of that was strictly necessary–there were always alternate routes that would keep things at Class 2.

The final stretch up to the Holy Cross summit had one large snow field that would have been a pain to avoid–the only such snow field on the route right now. I just walked across and suffered only minor post-holing on the edges.

The descent down the North Ridge is initially steep and rocky, but eventually gives way to some excellent Inca trail work, thanks to the folks with Colorado Fourteeners Initiative (CFI). Say “Hi” to the marmots basking in the sun as you pass them by.

In the East Cross Creek basin, you’ll find 10 signed campsites for backpackers. These are unimproved and on a first-come-first-served basis. Site #2 looks to be the nicest, just north of East Cross Creek. The Creek, by the way, is running just slightly high and you will need to cross on rocks and two logs. The logs are actually fairly secure but they do roll ever so slightly as you weight them. Poles are useful to keep from taking a bath. Just walk across slowly, and deliberately.

From this basin, many might find the next stretch to be the mental crux: you have to climb nearly a thousand feet up to Half Moon Pass. And…the initial, very steep, switchbacks seem designed more for Brighty of the Grand Canyon, than for homo sapiens. Eventually, though, the grade backs off for the remaining 3/4 of a mile or so up to the pass.

The downhill run back to the trailhead from the pass is a very full 1.7 miles, so it can seem to be interminable after such a long day (it certainly did to me!). Have some sandals ready for when you slide off those blister pounders at the trailhead.

So, in summary, the circuit seems to break down into these five sections: 1-Fall Creek Trail (pleasant forest hiking, gentle grade), 2-Notch Mountain Trail (the switchback grind to 13,000′), 3-the Halo Ridge (boulder/talus fest), 4-North Ridge descent (use poles to save the knees!), and 5-the Half Moon Pass exit (the climb out of the basin and down to the trailhead…ugh!).

Photography Issues:

–High clouds thwarted my hope of having some nice moonset/sunrise pictures of the Mount. As dawn approached, and as the Moon dropped ever lower down onto the Halo Ridge, the lunar disc became progressively more obscured by the thicker clouds on the horizon. All this planning and effort! Darn. Looks like I’ll be back!

–Speaking of coming back…A supreme Colorado photo expedition would be to hike the Fall Creek Trail in the afternoon (forest, flower, waterfall images), camp by the Notch Mountain Shelter (sunset and sunrise images of Holy Cross), then come back down the same way on day three. Once again, I would time this for a full moonset/sunrise combination and for soon after the opening of Tigiwon Road–mid/late-June–so the mountains would still be snow-speckled and the wild flowers in bloom. (One tip for this trip: You’ll have to carry the required water, or melt snow up on the ridge.)

Unusual Events/Comments:

–Since I lost my SPOT Gen3 (GPS tracker) on Harvard last week and the replacement didn’t arrive before my departure, I was relying on spotty cell phone coverage to send my spouse the save-my-marriage “I’m OK” updates. Luckily, I was able to send messages from the trailhead, from a rare high point of the Halo Ridge, and on the summit of Holy Cross (Verizon).

–The wildflowers are out in their rainbow multitudes! Purple, blue, white, pink, red, yellow, gold…they were especially nice near the Half Moon Trailhead, on the Fall Creek Trail, and in the tundra by the Notch Mountain Shelter.

–The Notch Mountain Shelter had a new padlock but it did not actually lock the door–it was affixed to a flange on the door itself. In the keyhole was an old, heavy, iron “L”-shaped “key” that seemed to be for sliding the bolt…but, with five minutes of curious and not-too-determined fiddling, I couldn’t seem to unlatch anything. So, I’m not sure if the door is truly locked or not. Maybe if you were desperate, or you were a locksmith or a burglar, you could figure it out. [I’ll give a call to the Forest Service and post an update here–it would be too bad if the Forest Service has locked it as it would make an excellent emergency refuge in case you were attacked on the ridge by high voltage sky spears.]

–Snow was not an issue on Halo Ridge or North Ridge. It could all be avoided (except maybe that last flat patch on the south side of Holy Cross summit). If you do walk on it, be careful about the worst case: post-holing down to your hip between hidden boulders.

–I would wear very sturdy shoes or boots, unless you have fused ankles. The boulder hopping along Halo Ridge could easily twist a joint and cause injury. Even knee wraps wouldn’t be a bad idea if you have knee issues. Many of the boulders–even the larger ones you think would be stable–will move on you. Hiking poles were also very helpful to maintain balance–as long as you place them securely on a flat rock.

–Unless you melt snow, there is no water from the start of the switchbacks (from Switchback #6, currently) on the Notch Mountain Trail until you descend to East Cross Creek. I carried four very heavy liters and drank all but a pint or so. Keep in mind my 2a.m. departure–you may need more water if you hike during the heat of the day.

–The Mountain Spiders (Aculepeira carbonarioides) all had there webs out and about between the boulders. I detoured around or stepped over at least a dozen web traps strung like miniature clotheslines between the rocks on Halo Ridge. Keep an eye out!

–The mosquitoes were also out in force–especially in the East Cross Creek basin. If your flesh and blood is of the mosquito bait variety, bring plenty of bug spray.

–Due to high use by humans, if you camp in the East Cross Creek area, the Forest Service will want you in one of the ten designated campsites you’ll find there. A busy 4th of July weekend could be problematic unless you get the worm early. In a pinch, it looks like you could camp where you want if you bushwhacked strenuously farther up the drainage toward the Bowl of Tears.

–The first humanoid form I saw appeared like a lone man statue around 8a.m. on the distant (from my perspective at the time) summit of Holy Cross. In total, I saw maybe 20 folks on the mountain during my hike. With the exception of a family enjoying the view at Half Moon Pass, all were either on the summit of Holy Cross or descending the North Ridge. I had the entire Halo Ridge to myself (along with the marmots and spiders, of course).

—Colorado 14er Senior Challenge summit count: 34 of the basic list of 58 (p. xxiii in Gerry Roach’s 14er “Bible”, Colorado Fourteeners, 3rd Ed.); 40 of the long list of 73 (pp. 347-348, with South Wilson added, also in Roach’s “Bible”.

Selected Images:

First, some pictures from along Highway 24, just south of Minturn, Colorado.

The strange ghost mining settlement of Gilman. I’d love to get permission for a complete photographic survey of this place–before the vandals and visigoths wreck everything…

Gilman, #1. Near Minturn, Colorado, 2015

Gilman, #2. Near Minturn, Colorado, 2015

The dirt road intersecting Highway 24 is Tigiwon Road (FR707) which leads some 8.5 miles up to the Half Moon Trailhead. Minturn is farther away down the valley about three miles. The river is the Eagle River…

Tigiwon Road View. Near Minturn, Colorado, 2015

Higher up on Battle Mountain, one has a nice view of Notch Mountain, but Mount of the Holy Cross is still hidden behind. The Notch Mountain Trail switchbacks up that smooth ramp on the left side of the photograph…

Notch Mountain from Hwy 24. Near Minturn, Colorado, 2015

Thick forest and splendid flower displays along the dirt road to Half Moon Trailhead…

Forest and Flowers. Tigiwon Road, Colorado, 2015

The signed Fall Creek Trailhead is on the left and the signed Half Moon Trailhead is 100 yards uphill to the right. There is also a campground a few hundred yards downhill, but I simply slept in the back of my truck in the parking area…

Half Moon Trailhead, Colorado, 2015

One more flower scene from just a few hundred yards down the road from the trailhead parking lot…

Notch Mountain View. Near Half Moon Trailhead, Colorado, 2015

The beauty of the forest…

A Hobbit Creek. Half Moon Trailhead, Colorado, 2015

Early the next morning, on the climb up Notch Mountain…This is an attempt to collect beta for my friends planning the Notch Mountain ridge traverse. It was actually almost dark, with a hint of light in the east. ISO 3200 and a bit of post-processing brought out detail I couldn’t see with my own eyes…

The Notch – Beta. Notch Mountain Trail, Colorado, 2015

Dawn light to the east as I gained the Notch Mountain ridge near the shelter…

Dawn Horizons. Notch Mountain, Colorado, 2015

Dawn Horizons. From Notch Mountain, Colorado, 2015

My first view of Mount of the Holy Cross as I crested the ridge. High clouds obscured the full moon…

Holy Cross by Full Moon. Notch Mountain, Colorado, 2015

Holy Cross by Full Moon. From Notch Mountain, Colorado, 2015

The famous cross is starting to melt out, but is still quite recognizable…

The Holy Cross Awaits the Sun. From Notch Mountain, Colorado, 2015

The cloudline forms a third horizon as the sun approaches…

Notch Mountain Shelter, Dawn. Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

Continuing along Halo Ridge toward Point 13,248′, another view of the historical shelter…

Notch Mountain Shelter, #2. Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

Looking at the path ahead–note all the boulders you’ll have the pleasure of traipsing upon. The high points from left to right: Point 13,248′, Point 13,768′ (beyond Halo Ridge), Point 13,831′ (aka Holy Cross Ridge), and finally, Mount of the Holy Cross…

Halo Ridge, Dawn. Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

Finally, the sun rises above the remnants of last night’s thunderstorm…

Sunrise. Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

The morning sun illuminates the upper part of the Halo Ridge and the Mount of the Holy Cross…

Mount of the Holy Cross, Sunrise. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

One of the few tundra-carpeted sections of the route. Still, I tried to stay on the rocks to avoid damaging the flowers and plants. Point 13,373′ (with steep cliffs on its right side) is the next high point along the ridge…

South into the Sawatch Range. Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

South into the Sawatch Range. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

Mount of the Holy Cross peaks out from behind a steep section of Point 13,373′ with the Bowl of Tears far below. This is the view as one approaches the top of Point 13,373’…

The Bowl of Tears. Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

The Bowl of Tears. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

Progress seems excruciatingly slow across the boulders, but the Notch Mountain Shelter slowly recedes into the distance. That is Point 13,248′ on the far right…

Notch Mountain Shelter, #3. Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

Notch Mountain Shelter, #3. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

Point 13,768′ is south of the Halo Ridge route, but is quite a lovely and inviting peak worth a dedicated visit in the future…

Point 13768 on Holy Cross Ridge. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

July, and we still have ice in the high mountain lakes! This lake is on the south side of Halo Ridge, opposite the Bowl of Tears…

Ice, Upper Tuhare Lake. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

The image title names the obvious high points…

Point 13768, Point 13831, and Holy Cross. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

I noticed the first human on the Holy Cross summit at around 8a.m. while I still was an hour and a half away. He or she arrived via the standard North Ridge Route which climbs the other side…

Human on Holy Cross Summit. From the Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

Human on Holy Cross Summit. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

More progress! This is a telephoto view of the shelter from Point 13,831′, my lunch stop…

Notch Mountain Shelter, #4. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

A couple of photographs of some of the more difficult 14ers in the Elks Range. Can you find Snowmass, Capitol, Maroon Peaks, et al?…

Elks Range, #1. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

Elks Range, #2. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

The last section of the Halo Ridge Route leading up to the Holy Cross summit…

South Ridge of Holy Cross. From Halo Ridge, Colorado, 2015

Looking across the bowl to Notch Mountain and the start of the Halo Ridge. The Notch Mountain Shelter is visible and, to its right, the first high bump, Point 13,248’…

Holy Cross Summit View, #1. Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

A close-up of Notch Mountain for anyone thinking of that traverse…

The Notch, Close-up. From Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

Some references along the Halo Ridge, the Sawatch range continues on in the distance…

View South with Labels. Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

View South with Labels. From Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

And a slight shift in perspective…

View South with Labels, #2. Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

View South with Labels, #2. From Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

Some beautiful peaks to the south, one of which made a wonderful lunch perch…

Points 13,831′ and 13,768′. From Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

A view of the route ahead, descending beside the obvious snow tongue…

North Ridge Route. Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

North Ridge Route. From Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

A view of East Cross Creek basin and the enjoyable stroll back up over Half Moon Pass. A piece of the North Ridge is visible on the left…

Half Moon Pass View. Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

Half Moon Pass View. From Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

The requisite summit hero shot…

French Legionaire on the Summit. Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado, 2015

The cumulus start to build–the signal to hoist my fanny perpendicular and get moving on down the trail before Thor makes his regular afternoon appearance…