Canal de la Mora, #11, Andorra, 2019
This is an ideal via ferrata ideal for first-timers (K2 rating–for details, in Spanish, go HERE).
It is a fun route, very easy to access, and not terribly exposed but with a couple of challenging moves that will likely make initiates think a bit. If you don’t have the appropriate gear, it can be rented in the town directly below the cliff.
About two-thirds of the way up the route you have three options…
- Stay in the gulley and keep things relatively easy (K1, a couple of K2 moves), or…
- Slip-slide your way up climber’s right on the polished slab (K2+/K3-, maybe?) using some widely-spaced rungs, eventually traversing left to rejoin the K2 route higher up, or…
- Take a deep breath, then scale the vertical, even slightly overhanging, wall on the left (K4) to top out. Have an extra sling and carabiner handy to clip if you need to rest!
One caution: Since the normal route follows a gully for much of its length, this via could be quite wet with spring runoff or after heavy rains. As it was, on this very late fall outing, there was still a trickle of water flowing down the channel.
A bonus: There are other vias ferrata on this same rock, including the impressive K3-rated Directissima (or Roc del Quer) that, as the name would imply, goes straight up the main face to the airy tourist viewpoint (that obvious “diving board”).
Pictures!
Here are some images to show you what you might be in for… taken as I followed some local mountain goats up the mountain. The camera used was a Sony RX100ii, which fits nicely in the pocket.
In this photo you can see most of the big rock they call El Canillo. The “diving board” is sticking out up there by the tree line–a thrilling viewpoint you can get to via a short drive and walk. The Directissima via ferrata goes up the main wall to that very viewpoint, the crux section being that reddish-orange smooth section a few hundred feet directly below the platform. The via ferrata Canal de la Mora starts on those cement stairs on the opposite side of the road and follows that big gully that splits the cliff. I shot this from the parking area which–be warned–is postage stamp-sized and will fit only 4-5 cars, so get there early if you want a spot:
Canal de la Mora, #2, Andorra, 2019
A close-up of the start of Canal de la Mora:
Canal de la Mora, #3, Andorra, 2019
Another perspective of the start:
Canal de la Mora, #4, Andorra, 2019
Initially, the slabs aren’t too steep… but that changes higher up. The autumn colors were voluptuous:
Canal de la Mora, #5, Andorra, 2019
Slightly steeper rock:
Canal de la Mora, #8, Andorra, 2019
The vibrantly voluptuous autumn palette. In spring, expect to encounter a lot more water running down this gully:
Canal de la Mora, #9, Andorra, 2019
The views expand with altitude:
Canal de la Mora, #16, Andorra, 2019
The normal route follows this gully where you see our two climbers. I am photographing from the very slightly harder (just more continuously steep, really) right-side variation:
Canal de la Mora, #18, Andorra, 2019
Not for the hearty fainters, this is the K4 option to climber’s left of the gully. Note the correct spacing between the climbers–too close and you could fall directly onto your buddy below before your lanyard catches you:
Canal de la Mora, #19, Andorra, 2019
It’s like being a kid again! Ah, the joys of the via ferrata:
Canal de la Mora, #20, Andorra, 2019
One of the crux sections higher up in the gully:
Canal de la Mora, #22, Andorra, 2019
You’ll face the last challenging move of the route maybe 50 feet from topping out. It’s a bit tricky getting your feet onto the rung on which she is now happily standing:
Canal de la Mora, #24, Andorra, 2019
The A Team! We finished just as the first raindrops fell… snow the following day. So ours may have been one of the last ascents before the Andorran ski season. The descending scramble down the ridge and back to your car will take you 30-45 minutes. Consider keeping your harness on as the last few meters to the road have some safety cables you can clip:
Canal de la Mora, #28, Andorra, 2019
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